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Laura and Deanna Fanning say their spring/summer 2027 Kiko Kostadinov womenswear collection will take a cleaner, more graphic direction after recent seasons focused on silhouette and transparency. The ELLE report describes a label with a devoted following and an aesthetic that combines utility, textiles and references to different eras.
Designers Laura and Deanna Fanning say the next Kiko Kostadinov womenswear collection will be cleaner and more graphic, offering a new direction after recent seasons that explored silhouettes and transparency. In an interview with ELLE ahead of the label’s October 5 Paris Fashion Week show, the sisters discussed the work in progress and the design approach behind a line known for its devoted following.
The Fannings described the spring/summer 2027 collection as a move toward visual directness. “So far, we feel like the collection is looking very clean, very graphic,” Deanna told ELLE. She added that their take on minimalism may not look minimal to everyone. The designers were finishing the collection in their London studio in the days before the show.
The source report contrasts that direction with recent seasons in which the sisters explored silhouette and transparency. For the new work, they studied visual artist Nanda Vigo, whose ambient installations used light to define space. The designers said they wanted to reinterpret that idea on the body; the report does not describe the full collection or establish how extensively the reference appears in the finished clothes.
The label’s womenswear is led by the Fannings, who joined founder Kiko Kostadinov in 2018, two years after he established the London-based brand as a menswear label. The sisters bring different specialties to the work: Deanna has a knitwear background, while Laura focuses on silhouette. They told ELLE that textiles, color and accessories are shared interests that help shape the clothes and the image of the line.
A New Direction for the Womenswear Line
The announced shift matters because it offers a view of how the designers are developing a label whose appeal rests partly on visual complexity. ELLE describes the womenswear as followed by artists and intellectuals, with an audience receptive to clothing that does not fit familiar fashion categories. A cleaner, more graphic collection could change how that visual language is expressed, while still drawing on the unusual combinations that have helped define it.
The report characterizes the label’s clothes as combining utility with science-fiction and historical references. It gives examples from the fall/winter 2026 runway, including a bomber with modernist triangular epaulets and a cardigan maxi dress with detachable oversized sleeves. Those examples illustrate the existing design language; they are not confirmed pieces from the upcoming spring/summer collection.
For readers following fashion, the interview provides an early account of the designers’ priorities before the runway presentation. It does not establish how customers or critics will respond. The show itself will provide the next public evidence of how the stated interest in directness translates into a collection.
How the Fannings Joined Kostadinov
Kostadinov founded his namesake brand in 2016 as a menswear label. The Fannings, Australian twin sisters and Central Saint Martins graduates, began developing its womenswear in 2018. According to ELLE, Kostadinov gave them freedom to shape the line, and they drew on ideas from their own master’s collections.
The sisters say their long history of working together informs their collaboration. Their design interests include textiles, color and accessories, while their personal backgrounds have also shaped the work. Laura recalled paying attention to footwear while growing up in Australia; both sisters linked their interest in craftsmanship to clothes and shoes sent by their Italian grandparents. The brand has also built collaborations around footwear, including work with ASICS, according to the report.
What the Runway Will Confirm
The source is a preview interview, so the finished spring/summer 2027 collection and its full range of garments are not established in the available material. The designers describe its intended direction, but the report does not say how many looks it will include or specify what pieces will appear. The source also gives October 5 as the show date without stating the year, so the timing cannot be pinned down further from this material.
The phrase “cult following” appears in the report as a characterization of the womenswear audience. The source offers no audience figures, sales data or survey evidence to measure that following. It also does not provide independent assessments of the new collection or report a response from buyers and critics.
The October 5 Paris Presentation
The next scheduled milestone is the label’s October 5 Paris Fashion Week show, where the spring/summer 2027 collection is expected to be presented. The runway will show how the Fannings translate their stated interest in cleaner lines, graphic form and Nanda Vigo’s use of light into garments and styling.
After the presentation, fuller information may emerge through runway images, reviews and any further comments from the designers. Until then, the collection’s specific designs and its reception remain unknown.
Key Questions
What is the news about Kiko Kostadinov?
Laura and Deanna Fanning previewed a cleaner, more graphic direction for the label’s spring/summer 2027 womenswear collection in an interview with ELLE ahead of its Paris show.
When is the collection being shown?
The source says the show is scheduled for October 5 at Paris Fashion Week, but it does not state the year.
Who designs Kiko Kostadinov womenswear?
Laura and Deanna Fanning have led the womenswear component since joining the brand in 2018. Kiko Kostadinov founded the label in 2016 as a menswear brand.
What inspired the spring/summer 2027 collection?
The sisters said they studied visual artist Nanda Vigo, whose ambient works used light to delineate space. They said they aimed to reinterpret that idea on the body.
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